Walk into any furniture store and you'll encounter a bewildering array of material descriptions: solid timber, MDF, particleboard, veneer, laminate, engineered wood. Marketing language often obscures rather than clarifies, making it difficult to understand what you're actually buying and whether it represents good value. This guide demystifies furniture materials, explaining what each term means, how quality varies within categories, and what to consider for your specific needs and budget.
Solid Timber: The Premium Choice
Solid timber furniture is exactly what it sounds like—pieces constructed from genuine wood throughout. This includes hardwoods like oak, walnut, acacia, and teak, as well as softwoods like pine. Solid timber has been the standard for quality furniture for centuries, and for good reason.
Advantages of Solid Timber
- Durability: Quality hardwood furniture can last generations with proper care. Scratches and dents can be sanded out and refinished
- Character: Natural grain patterns make each piece unique. The wood develops a patina over time that many consider beautiful
- Repairability: Damage can usually be repaired, from refinishing worn surfaces to gluing loose joints
- Value retention: Quality solid timber furniture holds its value and can even appreciate
- Environmental: Responsibly sourced timber is renewable and biodegradable
Considerations
- Cost: Solid timber is significantly more expensive than engineered alternatives—often 3-10 times the price
- Weight: Genuine timber furniture is heavy, complicating delivery and repositioning
- Sensitivity: Wood responds to humidity changes, potentially warping or cracking in extreme conditions
- Maintenance: Requires periodic conditioning and protection from moisture, heat, and direct sunlight
Examine the end grain—solid timber shows growth rings. Check the weight—solid wood is heavier than it looks. Run your hand along edges—solid timber has consistent texture throughout. Ask for species verification in writing if making a significant purchase.
Medium-Density Fibreboard (MDF)
MDF is an engineered wood product made by breaking down wood fibres and combining them with resin binders under heat and pressure. It's one of the most common materials in modern furniture, including many TV units.
MDF Characteristics
MDF has a smooth, uniform surface that paints beautifully and takes veneers well. It doesn't have grain direction, so it won't split along the grain like natural wood. This makes it ideal for complex profiles, routed details, and painted finishes.
Quality Variations
Not all MDF is created equal. Key quality indicators include:
- Density: Higher density MDF is stronger and heavier. Budget furniture often uses lower-density boards that are more prone to damage
- Thickness: Quality furniture uses thicker panels (18mm+ for shelves and structure) that resist sagging and damage better than thin boards
- Moisture resistance: Some MDF is treated for moisture resistance (often called "MR MDF" or coloured green). This is important in humid climates or for units that might contact spills
- Formaldehyde levels: Look for E0 or E1 ratings indicating low formaldehyde emissions, particularly important for indoor air quality
Limitations
- Water sensitivity: Standard MDF swells when exposed to moisture and doesn't recover—this is its biggest weakness
- Weight: Quality MDF is surprisingly heavy
- Screw holding: MDF doesn't grip screws as well as solid wood. Quality joinery uses specialised hardware or reinforced mounting points
- Cannot be refinished: Unlike solid timber, you can't sand and refinish MDF—what you see is what you get
Key Takeaway
Quality MDF furniture can provide excellent value. The key is assessing the specific MDF quality—thickness, density, and moisture resistance—rather than dismissing all MDF as "cheap."
Particleboard (Chipboard)
Particleboard is made from wood chips and particles bonded with resin. It's cheaper to produce than MDF and is commonly used in budget furniture. While often dismissed as low-quality, it has legitimate applications when used appropriately.
Where Particleboard Works
Modern particleboard performs adequately in:
- Internal structures that aren't visible or load-bearing
- Backing panels
- Drawer bottoms
- Situations where it's fully encapsulated and protected from moisture
Where It Doesn't
Avoid particleboard in:
- Shelving that will bear significant weight (it sags over time)
- Any surface exposed to potential moisture
- Edges and areas subject to impact
- Screw mounting points (it strips easily)
Identifying Quality Issues
Budget particleboard furniture often fails at predictable points:
- Shelves sagging under the weight of equipment
- Cam locks and screws pulling out of the material
- Edges chipping and crumbling
- Swelling and disintegration from any moisture exposure
Veneers: The Middle Ground
Veneer is a thin layer of real wood (typically 0.5-3mm thick) applied over a substrate, usually MDF or particleboard. Quality veneer furniture offers a genuine wood appearance at a lower price point than solid timber, and can be indistinguishable to the casual observer.
Veneer Quality Factors
- Thickness: Thicker veneers are more durable and can sometimes be refinished (carefully). Very thin veneers can sand through easily and are more prone to damage
- Species: The same timber species variations apply—oak, walnut, and similar hardwood veneers are more durable than softwood veneers
- Application method: Machine-applied veneers are generally more consistent; hand-applied veneers may show slight variations
- Edge treatment: Quality veneer furniture applies veneer to all visible edges. Look for veneer that wraps around edges rather than ending abruptly
- Substrate quality: Veneer is only as stable as what it's applied to. Quality veneer on particleboard still has particleboard weaknesses
Veneer vs. Solid Timber
Quality veneer furniture offers several advantages over solid timber:
- More consistent appearance (no natural imperfections)
- More dimensionally stable (less response to humidity)
- Better for large flat surfaces (no expansion/contraction issues)
- Significantly lower cost for the same wood species appearance
However, veneer has limitations:
- Cannot be refinished multiple times like solid timber
- Deep scratches reveal the substrate beneath
- Edges are more vulnerable than solid timber edges
Look at the wood grain pattern on different surfaces. Solid timber shows continuous grain that "flows" around corners. Veneer shows separate grain patterns on each surface that don't connect. This is neither good nor bad—just different construction.
Laminate Finishes
Laminate is a synthetic surface layer (usually paper or plastic printed with a pattern) bonded to a substrate. It's the most affordable surface finish and is common in budget furniture.
Laminate Types
- Melamine: A thermally fused laminate common in budget furniture. It's reasonably durable but can chip at edges and doesn't look like real wood up close
- High-pressure laminate (HPL): A more durable, thicker laminate used in commercial and better-quality residential furniture. More resistant to impact, heat, and moisture
- Foil finish: Very thin decorative paper, sometimes called "paper wrap." The lowest-cost option with limited durability
Laminate Advantages
- Affordable—significantly cheaper than veneer or solid timber
- Easy to clean—wipe with damp cloth
- Consistent appearance—no natural variations
- Moisture resistant—won't absorb spills like wood
Laminate Limitations
- Cannot be refinished or repaired if damaged
- Doesn't have the depth and warmth of real wood
- Edges are often the first point of failure
- Can look cheap, particularly in wood-grain prints
Metal and Glass
Many modern TV units incorporate metal frames and glass elements, particularly industrial-style and minimalist designs.
Metal Considerations
- Steel: Strong and durable, often powder-coated for protection. Look for thick-gauge steel in structural elements
- Iron: Often used in industrial designs. May require more maintenance in humid coastal areas
- Aluminium: Lightweight and corrosion-resistant, but softer and more easily dented
- Finish quality: Check powder coating for even coverage and thickness. Poor coatings chip easily and expose the metal to corrosion
Glass Considerations
- Tempered glass: Essential for any glass in furniture. Tempered glass is much stronger and breaks into small pieces rather than dangerous shards
- Thickness: Shelves should be at least 6mm thick, preferably 8-10mm for longer spans or heavy loads
- Edge finishing: Quality glass furniture has polished or bevelled edges, not rough-cut
Making Your Material Decision
The "best" material depends on your priorities, budget, and situation. Consider:
For Maximum Longevity
Choose solid timber or quality veneer on MDF from reputable manufacturers. Accept the higher cost as an investment in furniture that could last decades.
For Best Value
Quality MDF with good edge treatment and hardware often provides the best balance of durability and price. Look for thicker panels, moisture-resistant grades, and solid construction techniques.
For Budget-Conscious Buyers
Laminate on particleboard can work for temporary needs or low-demand situations. Accept that it may need replacing in 3-5 years. Focus on avoiding water exposure and overloading shelves.
For Australian Conditions
Humidity and temperature variations affect furniture materials. In humid coastal areas, favour moisture-resistant materials. In air-conditioned environments with controlled humidity, wood-based materials perform better.
Whatever material you choose, understanding what you're buying helps set appropriate expectations and ensures you're getting fair value for your investment. A quality MDF unit at $400 can be a better purchase than a poorly made "solid timber" unit at $800—knowing materials helps you make that distinction.